That Doughnut

It's hard not to think of vulgar or obscene things when you see these plum jam and custard doughnuts - look! They look like they're spewing! But they are one of the very best things I've eaten this year.

I never much liked doughnuts; they remind me of a brief teenage time I spent in Ipswich, biting into grease sponges fried in whiffy old fat from carts that lined the high street. Krispy Kremes make me feel sick and give me a toothache. But these, at Hawksmoor's new Guildhall branch, are light and fluffy, the cold custard and jam a welcome smooth contrast.

Oh, and my 250gr ribeye with an egg and hash browns was pretty damn sexy, even at 8am. What a breakfast to start the week. I only wish I didn't have to go to work that day, or I'd have gotten right stuck into the Bloody Mary buffet, or some breakfast cocktails, or a cornflake hardshake; nothing like a slug of bourbon to wake you up.

Hawksmoor Guildhall

10 Basinghall St.
London.
EC2V 5BQ

Tel: 020 7397 8120

I dined as a guest of Hawksmoor. But I've also eaten at other Hawksmoors several times on my own dollar.